It's good to be a big fucker paddling into a new line up!

d I was sporting an epically long goatee. I didn’t look like someone you really wanted to tr… I had every intention of being courteous and waiting my turn, but I wasn’t about to be intimidated. I weigh 250 pounds without my boots, my head was cleanly shaved, and I was sporting an epically long goatee. I didn’t look like someone you really wanted to trifle with, at least not on first inspection.
Surfing With Angels
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David Todd McCarty
Ryan Chin
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Dec 6, 2023
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It's good to be a big fucker paddling into a new line up! Only 4 people at a SoCal break and decent waves. That's lucky.
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Written by Ryan Chin
1.93K Followers
·1.4K Following
Author of The Big Head Diaries, stories of a lab from NZ, and Without Rain, a multimedia memoir. Email:thechinproject@gmail.com
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